Skip to main content

The iceberg tomato disgrace

I've been talking to local New Mexico chefs and restaurant owners lately about the possibility of buying their veggies from local farmers.

I've been surprised how many say "You know, we really don't serve produce in our restaurant." And then they'll add, "except for some lettuce and tomatoes." This last referring to the habitual garnish for many Mexican restaurant platters.

Sadly, many of our local restaurants don't serve any veggie side dishes with their meals, but that will be a rant for another day.

Today, I want to talk about "some lettuce and tomatoes." This is an afterthought for many local chefs because it is the ubiquitous and only semi-edible garnish that goes with burritos, enchiladas, tacos etc in many Mexican and New Mexican restaurants. It is a pile of shredded iceberg lettuce with a few scattered cubes of diced tomato added. It is typically not dressed or seasoned, it is just there on your plate like some tiny, half-completed salad. Iceberg lettuce is not great lettuce, the tomatoes are typically generic supermarket produce, and the result is generally somewhere between bad and worse.

If you are a local chef given to the habitual iceberg-tomato garnish, I am calling you out, right here, right now. Are you proud of what you cook? Then why insult your own cooking with the iceberg-tomato pile? Why not show a little creativity with your garnishes?

Howzabout -

Jicama cubes, diced red bell peppers, and cilantro with a lime dressing?

Corn, onion, black bean and red bell pepper relish?

Spicy shredded carrot relish?

Coleslaw estilo Mexicano, with green chiles and oregano?

Even a decent pico de gallo?


This is just off the top of my head - there have to be dozens of ways to do better than the iceberg-tomato disgrace.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Chicos and Beans!

Chicos and Beans, Ese! They go together like Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire. But what ARE they, and why are they so good? Chicos are as far as I know an ingredient peculiar to northeastern New Mexico. Chicos are sweet corn which is roasted in an outdoor wood-fired adobe oven called an Horno (pronounced or-no, as rhyming with “porno,” but don't make that association with the older generation.) The result is that the corn is preserved, but it keeps its sweetness and the sugars in the corn are caramelized, resulting in a wonderful, distinctive flavor. It is best to buy them from someone who has roasted them, as one never really knows how old the ones in the stores may be. Just like beans, if they are more than a year old, you have to cook them forever to make them tender. The classic winter repast of chicos and beans is about the sweetness of the ingredients and how they harmonize with each other. The chicos provide the sweetness of roasted corn, the smoked ham hocks provide the swe...

Tasso - ham the cajun way

The ham most of us eat today has only a little in common with the ham that was common at the table a century ago. Yes, it is smoked, cured pork. But today, that ham is typically cured by injecting it with a solution of brine and flavor additives; faster, and it puts the consumer in the position of paying ham prices for water. Look carefully at the supermarket label and you will likely see in small print, "ham and water product" or "10% added water by weight." The country hams of old were a different beast. Pork, yes, and generally pork leg, they would be rubbed down with a mixture of salt, sugar (or molasses) and spices, and left in this for days or even weeks, a process which drew water out of the pork, jump-starting the drying process as it preserved the ham. This was prior to the days of the refrigerator and freezer, and that was the core concept of the ham - by drying the meat out, infusing the flesh with salt and nitrates, and smoking it, the perishable po...

Green Chile Hummus

A couple of days ago, I bought a couple of bags of lentils and a lemon at our local supermarket. The cashier asked me if I use lemon in my lentils, and actually, I sometimes do, but I told her that the lemon was for my hummus. She asked me what that was, as she had never heard of such a thing. And since the mission of this blog is to introduce local folks to foods unfamiliar to them, I am going to talk about hummus, and share the best hummus recipe ever. Hummus is a delicious Middle Eastern appetizer, a healthy and immensely flavorful dip that will make you ashamed that you ever served the ranch dressing or onion soup mix sour cream dips to people you actually like. Hummus is a puree of garbanzo beans, tahini (sesame seed paste)garlic and lemon juice. Healthy and pure heaven in your mouth. But being me, I was recently making hummus for a party and I asked myself, "How could I make this even better, and maybe put a New Mexico spin on it?" I did so by adding locally grown,...