Skip to main content

Of Chilequiles and Frito Pies

Frito pies are popular here in New Mexico, as well as in Texas and Oklahoma.

A frito pie is a simple dish, a pile of storebought fritos, with a red chile or taco filling poured over, the whole thing topped with the standard adornments of shredded lettuce, chopped tomato, grated cheddar cheese, onions, and a dollop of sour cream.

I may lose friends for saying this, but it is a dish vulnerable to criticism. It's chief virtue is ease of preparation. It is as good as the toppings, basically. The chief problem from my perspective is that it begins with Fritos. This means way too much salt to be either healthy or optimally flavorful. And it means you have to buy Fritos.

The frito pie arguably took its inspiration from a much older, traditional dish, chilequiles. Chilequiles were simply a way to use corn tortillas which had gone stale in a fashion both nutritious and delicious. In preparing chilequiles, corn tortillas were cut up, lightly fried, and combined with any of an astonishing array of ingredients and either served straight-up or baked. The fried tortillas, combining with the sauces and other ingredients, made a slow transition from still resistant and slightly crunchy to a wonderful savory sort of corn mush as the dish sat.

Chilequiles, then, are a wonderful way to use up leftovers, and allow a great flexibility in terms of ingredients, so you can control salt content, amount and types of fat, basically any aspect of the dish.

Chilequiles can be meat-based or vegetarian, and use either green or red chile sauces. Technically, I suppose, if there is no chile, it can't be a chilequile, but would be more a sopa seca. But outside the defining parameters of corn tortillas and chile, chilequiles is a dish which can be whatever you want it to be.

Here is a good example, a recipe for vegetarian chilequiles which can be made using local ingredients -

Zucchini and Potato Chilequiles



The Tortillas

2 dozen corn tortillas, stale preferably.
a splash of veggie oil

Cut the tortillas into strips about the size of frito chips. toss with oil and spread on a baking sheet. Toast in a 350 degree oven until the strips are dried out and maybe a little more golden. We don't need to get 'em crisp.

The traditional way would be to fry them, but we are trying to be heart-friendly.

The Filling

3-4 good size russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 large calabacitas, mexican grey squash or zucchini, chopped into ½ inch squares
Olive oil
4 peeled cloves of garlic
A pinch of Mexican oregano
A splash of Worchestershire Sauce
1 Cup sour cream
1 cup cheddar cheese
a few grinds black pepper
1 tsp salt

Boil the potatoes until tender but not mushy. Put the squash in a skillet with enough olive oil to saute them. Add a pinch of mexican oregano and a chopped clove of garlic. Saute until tender but not mushy. Mash the potatoes coarsely with the sour cream, Worchestershire Sauce, 3 cloves of garlic run through a crusher. Leave the potatoes chunky. Add the cheddar cheese, salt, pepper and the sauted squash and mix.

Assembly

1 recipe red chile sauce
2 cups cheddar cheese

Put half the toasted tortilla strips in a large baking dish. Spread the potato-zucchini mixture over them, put on the rest of the tortilla strips, pour the red chile sauce over all, and top with the cheese. Bake in a 350 degree oven for half an hour.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Chicos and Beans!

Chicos and Beans, Ese! They go together like Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire. But what ARE they, and why are they so good? Chicos are as far as I know an ingredient peculiar to northeastern New Mexico. Chicos are sweet corn which is roasted in an outdoor wood-fired adobe oven called an Horno (pronounced or-no, as rhyming with “porno,” but don't make that association with the older generation.) The result is that the corn is preserved, but it keeps its sweetness and the sugars in the corn are caramelized, resulting in a wonderful, distinctive flavor. It is best to buy them from someone who has roasted them, as one never really knows how old the ones in the stores may be. Just like beans, if they are more than a year old, you have to cook them forever to make them tender. The classic winter repast of chicos and beans is about the sweetness of the ingredients and how they harmonize with each other. The chicos provide the sweetness of roasted corn, the smoked ham hocks provide the swe...

Tasso - ham the cajun way

The ham most of us eat today has only a little in common with the ham that was common at the table a century ago. Yes, it is smoked, cured pork. But today, that ham is typically cured by injecting it with a solution of brine and flavor additives; faster, and it puts the consumer in the position of paying ham prices for water. Look carefully at the supermarket label and you will likely see in small print, "ham and water product" or "10% added water by weight." The country hams of old were a different beast. Pork, yes, and generally pork leg, they would be rubbed down with a mixture of salt, sugar (or molasses) and spices, and left in this for days or even weeks, a process which drew water out of the pork, jump-starting the drying process as it preserved the ham. This was prior to the days of the refrigerator and freezer, and that was the core concept of the ham - by drying the meat out, infusing the flesh with salt and nitrates, and smoking it, the perishable po...

Green Chile Hummus

A couple of days ago, I bought a couple of bags of lentils and a lemon at our local supermarket. The cashier asked me if I use lemon in my lentils, and actually, I sometimes do, but I told her that the lemon was for my hummus. She asked me what that was, as she had never heard of such a thing. And since the mission of this blog is to introduce local folks to foods unfamiliar to them, I am going to talk about hummus, and share the best hummus recipe ever. Hummus is a delicious Middle Eastern appetizer, a healthy and immensely flavorful dip that will make you ashamed that you ever served the ranch dressing or onion soup mix sour cream dips to people you actually like. Hummus is a puree of garbanzo beans, tahini (sesame seed paste)garlic and lemon juice. Healthy and pure heaven in your mouth. But being me, I was recently making hummus for a party and I asked myself, "How could I make this even better, and maybe put a New Mexico spin on it?" I did so by adding locally grown,...