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Winter Squash and green chile casserole

In this part of the world, squash has been cultivated since pre-Columbian times. Scholars claim that the first squash were cultivated here not for their flesh, but for the seeds, an important winter source of fat and protein. Make a mental note, therefore, and save your squash seeds, either to eat them, or to replant them in the spring. If your squash is a hybrid, take note; it will likely NOT breed true from seed, so you should probably eat the seeds, and make a mental note to buy heirloom squash from local farmers next time around.

The most common squash in these parts is a dual purpose vegetable called "calabacita." In the spring and summer, it produces egg-shaped summer squash, striped and similar in coloration to the Mexican grey squash. It is yummy, and goes nicely with fresh field corn. More on that another day. If allowed to remain on the vine until the end of the growing season, it becomes a humongous winter squash, called a calabaza or a pumpkin depending on who you talk to. If you can get the seeds of these, get them, grow them, share them. They are part of our history and culture, our agriculture and our cuisine.

This fall season is the time for both winter squashes and pumpkins, and also to buy your big burlap sacks of green chile to roast. They are both wonderful, so why not combine them?

Chile-Squash Casserole


1 large Butternut or other winter squash of comparable size - or multiply recipe to fit your pumpkin
1 tsp salt
1 onion, thinly sliced
½ cup roasted green chiles
½ cup seasoned bread crumbs
2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese
3 eggs
1 cup milk
1 Tbs worcestershire sauce
ground black pepper


Peel the butternut with a vegetable peeler, or if using other winter squash
use whatever strategy suits to separate the flesh from the peel. Split in
half and remove the seeds.

Roast the squash, cut side down, on a foil-lined cookie sheet at 400
degrees for a half-hour or until the squash is tender, and slightly
caramelized on the outside. Let cool and cut into  ¼ inch slices.
Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl, fold together, scrape into an
oiled or buttered baking dish. Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes,
covered, and uncover and bake for ten minutes more or until browned on
top.

NOTES: Roasting squash, for most any use, is preferable to boiling them.
Roasting concentrates the sugars and caramelizes them a bit as well,
resulting in tasty squash. Boiling removes sugars, flavor and vitamins,
and results in a soggy, insipid pulp.

Although poblanos are incredibly rich in flavor, you really want the thin,
New Mexico style green chiles for this dish. You could substitute
Anaheims, I suppose. The green chiles which come in cans can be used,
but flavor will suffer. Do yourself a favor and roast your own.

Roasting green chiles- Here in New Mexico and in many other parts of the
southwest, the markets where you buy the chiles will roast them for you,
if you buy a good amount. If you do not have such a service available and
just need a small amount, put the chiles on a foil-lined baking sheet and
stick them under your broiler 6 inches or so from the heat, turning when
the skin blisters and blackens. You want the skin blistered all over and
blackened in places. Put the chiles in a plastic bag, seal, and let them
steam in their own heat for 20 minutes or so. The skins should come
right off, then. Remove the stems and split the chiles and scrape out most if
not all of the seeds. Do NOT rinse them in water, as you will be rinsing
away much of the wonderful flavor as well.

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