Skip to main content

Lactofermented Radish and Onion Schmaltz

Just jarred up a batch of forager chef Alan Bergo's lactofermented radish and onion shmaltz. 

Yeah, it's weird, and yeah, it's unexpectedly yummy and addicting. I expect the texture to improve once it chills in the fridge.

Roughly a pound and a half of radishes and onions are shredded or finely sliced, combined with two percent salt by weight, and vacuum sealed.

They are left out at room temperature for a week or so until the bag swells up with gas and the veg is lactofermented.  The radish-onion mix is then squeezed to remove excess juice, and put in a blender. Liquid schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) is drizzled in and wizzed up with the veg mixture until the mixture becomes a homogenous spreadable paste.  Next time, I will use a food processor for the blending, as I had to release the blades on the blender multiple times before this was done.

I realized only after re-reading Bergo's recipe that I had omitted raw garlic (1 tablespoon full) from the ferment. So maybe not as good? But still delish. I will be more mindful next time.

I would totally enjoy this spread on a bagel or on baguette slices. If you use red-skinned radishes, you will have the added effect of the shmaltz being pink in color. Why not?

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Chicos and Beans!

Chicos and Beans, Ese! They go together like Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire. But what ARE they, and why are they so good? Chicos are as far as I know an ingredient peculiar to northeastern New Mexico. Chicos are sweet corn which is roasted in an outdoor wood-fired adobe oven called an Horno (pronounced or-no, as rhyming with “porno,” but don't make that association with the older generation.) The result is that the corn is preserved, but it keeps its sweetness and the sugars in the corn are caramelized, resulting in a wonderful, distinctive flavor. It is best to buy them from someone who has roasted them, as one never really knows how old the ones in the stores may be. Just like beans, if they are more than a year old, you have to cook them forever to make them tender. The classic winter repast of chicos and beans is about the sweetness of the ingredients and how they harmonize with each other. The chicos provide the sweetness of roasted corn, the smoked ham hocks provide the swe...

Oregano de la Sierra

One of the culinary herbs peculiar to this region is Oregano de la Sierra. It is used in place of oregano in the local cuisine. It is not oregano. The latin name for this plant is Monarda Menthefolium, and it is a variety of bee balm. It does have a flavor reminiscent of oregano with a bit of mint. It is a beautiful plant. It is normally foraged in the mountainous areas, hence its name, which translates as "oregano of the mountains."Those who enjoy word play will note that the word "oregano" itself derives from the Greek "ganos" meaning brightness or ornament, and "oros" meaning mountains. So cross-culturally, "oregano de la sierra" means "ornament of the mountains of the mountains." The photo at right is of oregano de la sierra growing in my back yard. It is drought-hardy and likes filtered shade. As you may guess, being a bee balm, bees love it, so it doesn't just feed you, it feeds our little friends as well. If you wan...

Of Chilequiles and Frito Pies

Frito pies are popular here in New Mexico, as well as in Texas and Oklahoma. A frito pie is a simple dish, a pile of storebought fritos, with a red chile or taco filling poured over, the whole thing topped with the standard adornments of shredded lettuce, chopped tomato, grated cheddar cheese, onions, and a dollop of sour cream. I may lose friends for saying this, but it is a dish vulnerable to criticism. It's chief virtue is ease of preparation. It is as good as the toppings, basically. The chief problem from my perspective is that it begins with Fritos. This means way too much salt to be either healthy or optimally flavorful. And it means you have to buy Fritos. The frito pie arguably took its inspiration from a much older, traditional dish, chilequiles. Chilequiles were simply a way to use corn tortillas which had gone stale in a fashion both nutritious and delicious. In preparing chilequiles, corn tortillas were cut up, lightly fried, and combined with any of an astonishing arr...